Airbrushing the Chimera Tutorial

AIRBRUSHING 101

Ok, now that I've started the Chimera project, here are some thoughts/remarks that I've made about airbrushing at various places/times for review:

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ON BUYING AN AIRBRUSH AND OTHER FACTORS

Here's a breakdown on the airbrush options:

Single action or Double action: A single action refers to when you depress the trigger the airflow and paint flow start. It's pretty much point and shoot. Double action means that when you depress the trigger the airflow starts, and when you pull it back, the needle slides back and allows the paint to mix with the airflow. There's more control with a double action airbrush.

Internal Mix or External Mix: An internal mix refers to where the air and paint meet. Internal happens inside the airbrush and the resulting mix is shot out of the cap. External means the air and paint mix outside the brush. For these options the Internal Mix allows more control and less mess.

Generally when people ask me about airbrushes, I recommend at least a single action internal mix airbrush... and NOT any type of Testor's or Aztec airbrushes. I use a double action internal mix Iwata HP-C, but that's because of the work I do on scale models.

Also, you'll need a regulator and moisture trap to adjust the air pressure and to keep the line from getting condensation forming in it... moisture in your airhose is bad... More than likely if you're going with a small non-studio compressor there will be a noise factor also involved.

Venting. Some may argue you don't need to vent that much. As a prolific airbrusher, I say the more you can vent the better. Also, you'll want a breather/mask to protect your lungs/sinuses no matter what. But it's your health you will be playing with. Not to mention overspray issues...

Next, comes the paint. What type? Laquer, enamel, or acrylic? The choice is yours. If you can't vent off really well I don't recommend lacquers... they're deadly stuff to get into your lungs and the thinner itself is deadly also. It can cause sterility, death, blindness, etc... not recommended stuff.

Enamels, can be a pain, but with the right mix can work well. But it's trial and error to get the mixing right depending on the brand. Also they can really mess up your airbrush (as can any paint that's used improperly), but I know a few brands come sold already pre-thinned for airbrushing. All you need to do is make sure to have enough thinner and cleaner on hand to take care of your airbrush.

Acrylics... I use acrylics period. Easy to clean up, easy to use. But that's just me. Again, you'll have a lot of options.

Priority is the regulator and moisture trap. Get the mask for protection. Pick out a paint and go to town!

Just like you taking care of your paintbrushes, taking care of the airbrush is just as important. Regular cleaning and maintenance after your done using it will ensure a long life to your airbrush.

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ON TYPES OF PAINTS

I use Gunze Sangyo Aqueous Hobby Color acrylics. They're Japanese acrylics and thinned with plain ol' Windex... It has a tough skin on it that resists most chipping when fully cured. I mean, you can chip/scratch anything if you hit it hard enough, so I don't worry about the primer too much. I also prime in black first, then white...

I don't recommend using Tamiya paints if you are going to go with acrylics, though. And though I have shot Vallejos and GW paint with my airbrush, they aren't something I would use consistently to prime. I know Vallejo does sell Model Air colors, so maybe the Flat Black would be a consideration for you?

I'd look into finding a nice FLAT (not gloss) enamel from a local hobby store? Maybe one in your area? If you know any airbrushers/modelers from your area talk to them or shoot them an email to see what you would be able to find locally that is a "pre-thinned" variety... sometimes a local store can offer you some different advice.

One thing - there are many different methods for airbrushing. People all use differing methods/paints/airbrushes. This is just how I do it..

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MORE ON PAINT

Ok let's break this down:

Gunze Sangyo Aqueous Hobby Color Paints: Flat Black and Flat White. These are thinned with a 3:2 ratio. 3 paint drops to 2 drops of WINDEX. Yes, Windex. Get yourself a bunch of Testors Pipettes. They are uber-handy for airbrushing work.

If you want to go another route, you can use the Vallejo Model Air Color - Yep, prethinned airbrushable colors, black and white. I've used mine straight out of the bottle or at a 4:1 ratio. 4 drops paint to 1 drop of Flow Improver mix.

My Flow Improver mix used for airbrushing is a 10:1 ratio. 10 parts water to 1 part Flow Improver (in my case W&N Flow Improver). Createx and Liquitex both make an "Airbrush Medium" that works just as well as a Flow Improver mix.

Now comes the tricky part. Vallejo Game Colors. Model Colors are really inconsistent and I try to avoid them at all times if I can get away with it. But the Game Colors are pretty thin to start with. Shake them WELL!!! I can't stress this enough. Now, you can either do a straight 2:1 mix or my 3:2 mix. Generally I test a 2:1 mix on a piece of styrene.

Set your PSI to about 14 - 16 to shoot. You may have to adjust, but if you're not generally used to your airbrush, power down the PSI to help you learn. Basically you're going for a consistency of paint like skim milk. I've yet to be disappointed with the 2:1 mix, but if it's too runny when being applied, then add a drop or two of the paint to your thinned mix to thicken it up. If it is too thin, then add more in! I've gotten strange ratios with some different paints at different times... 3:1, 5:2, etc. You will have to experiment sometimes.

I tested the new Reaper Master Series Paints at a 50/50 and a 60/40 ratio. I had to shoot the 60/40 at 22 PSI, but that wasn't a problem for me. Generally you can get away with the 50/50 most times. The Reaper MSPs are a bit thicker than Vallejo Game Color. Vallejo Model Color is REALLY thick so it will take a lot more thinning than either Game Color or the Reaper MSPs.

Remember to always shoot a piece of paper or styrene hanging up on the wall to test for flow and thinness. Once you've done it a few times you'll quickly get the hang of it.

BTW - You can use the Model Masters airbrush paints or the Floquils. However - and I must stress this - get yourself a large supply of their thinner when you do. These are enamels and will cake/gunk up quickly. And be sure to get FLAT paints; gloss won't work...

Also, no matter WHAT you are spraying, I highly recommend getting a respirator. Don't get a dust mask, but a respirator. Your lungs will thank you.

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ON COMPRESSORS

Well, there are a number of factors in my book:

NOISE and COMPATABILITY.

NOISE: You can jury-rig up a regular old pancake compressor from Wal-Mart, Sears, etc. to run your airbrush on. However, they are extremely hard on the ears. So that leaves you with the "studio" compressors made by each individual company...

COMPATIBILITY: With any compressor, you can buy adapters to fit a Paasche airbrush to the hose from a Badger Compressor for example. It's all a matter of finding one you like and can work with - and then making sure you have all the correct parts. MicroArt, Paasche, Badger and Iwata all make compressors for many different tasks. If you were around when I was shooting at the RAC, my compressor is an Iwata SmartJet. Another feature to look for is auto shut-off to make sure you don't overheat and ruin your compressor.

DixieArt.com has quite a few... heck, there are a lot of choices out there with just a simple yahoo search.

You should at least get something that is rated to run about a max 30 PSI depending on your airbrush. Gravity feed airbrushes don't have to take as much PSI to run, but a siphon feed takes just a bit more... I like having 40 PSI on mine makes running the cleaning fluid thru the brush very quickly. Remember, you won't be painting much above 20 PSI, so get what you need to do the job

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MORE THOUGHTS ON PAINT CHOICES

To answer the question on whether to buy a primer or just plain paint, well, it all depends on what you want to use, and have handy: Enamels, acrylics and laquers are the three types of paint choices you have..

Enamels: Floquil, Testors, Model Masters Acryl
Acrylics: Tamiya, Gunze, Polly Scale
Lacquers: Model Masters, Mr Hobby Color

Lacquers are really the best paints to use in airbrushing. However, there are quite a few side effects/hazards involved in working with them - death, explosion, lung disease, etc. Enamels are slightly better than acrylics, but can be a pain to clean up if they dry too quickly in your airbrush, or if you spill them. Acrylics generally easier to clean up and you generally don't have to buy some expensive brand of thinner to make them work. Also, with lacquers, you sometimes need (depending on the brand) a retarder to slow down the curing process so it doesn't dry out in the space between your airbrush and the surface you are painting.

When priming a miniature the coat of your paint is called the "shell". Lacquer shells are the most durable, and so are enamels.

In terms of acrylics, the Gunze beats Tamiya by a mile and Polly Scale is a bit up from the Tamiya. The Model Masters Acryl seems to be a popular choice, and generally is readily available at most hobby shops. However, I don't like paying extra for thinning agents given the number of pieces that I do...

What you really are doing with the coats you are laying down is establishing a coating over the miniature on which to apply your paint. So in essence, your primed miniature is now your canvas.

Once you have your canvas, you paint your miniatures, and then you seal them. If you use a durable sealer - such as Dull Coat or Future/Flat Base, then you needn't worry about what's underneath, as you've created a transparent durable "shell" over your paint job.

Generally, it sometimes falls to what is available and what you can afford and what makes the most sense for your set-up situation. I would recommend finding a decent FLAT black and FLAT white (don't use gloss paints to prime with) to use for priming your miniatures. Try experimenting with those...

I hope that helps some...

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Well, I hope all that rambling above helps you out, and answers a few questions. Remember to test your paint BEFORE spraying it on any models/minis. Also, search around the internet and your local hobby stores. There is a lot of information out there on airbrushing and techniques.

Good luck!