BASING THE MINIATURE:
The client and I never really discussed basing overall, but since he said it was a display piece I went forward with more of a display base that a standard gaming base.
First, I have a 3" wooden circle, and I've traced and cut out two 3" circles
from cork.
Now, I've broken the cork into some components for assembly.
I've test fitted where I want the cork to go to provide the basic structure
of the piece. Using carpenters glue, I've assembled the various layers
together. I always use carpenters glue with cork, as it is more durable,
seals better and can be sanded if necessary.
Now I've used Woodland Scenics ballast and just some plain fine sand to fill
in some of the edges on the base. Just brush in some carpenters glue, and
spoon on the ballast and/or sand. Shake off, and let dry.
To speed up drying of the glue, I placed the base under a "cooker" lamp.
Just an empty paint can with a 40w bulb on a reflector hood on the top. It
helps immensely in drying glues, epoxies, or clays.
Now, once the base is dried, I then take carpenters glue, mix in some water
to thin it out to use as a sealer over the cork, and to reinforce the cohesion
on the sand and ballast.
Just to give you some idea how the finished horse will sit on the base...
he's actually behind the base, and the pins have been inserted into a cap for
holding it during priming and painting. Note the hole on the rear quarter
of the horse's armor. That is where the sword will be placed. If you
are ever in doubt while assembling a miniature... just pin it. In the long
run you will be much happier that you did.
Ok, so now the watered down glue has been applied, and allowed to sit up for
a few moments. Before it completely starts to dry, I layer in over the
areas I want to look more ground like with some interior spackling paste.
Don't worry about it being a bit messy, as you can take a 3M drywall sanding
sponge to the paste and smooth/remove any unwanted areas.
Now the base has been placed in an oven. The oven (electric) was turned
on to WARM and once pre-heated, immediately turned off. This adds just
enough heat to speed the drying time up immensely. This is after the first
30 minutes of drying. Note that the cracking has occurred on the paste,
and then can be smoothed out a bit once it has finished drying completely.
I have yet to find anything cheaper or more effective in resembling just plain
earth than spackling paste. Can't beat it!
On the next update, I will be showing you the primered miniature, and then we get into the painting...